1 00:00:17,183 --> 00:00:19,101 [Narrator] Somewhere out there 2 00:00:19,185 --> 00:00:21,645 in the oceans and mountains 3 00:00:21,730 --> 00:00:25,024 is a place where time does not exist. 4 00:00:38,830 --> 00:00:41,373 When we get to that place, 5 00:00:41,458 --> 00:00:47,755 there is a voice in us that challenges us to go one step further. 6 00:00:47,839 --> 00:00:49,548 [thunder rumbles] 7 00:00:52,343 --> 00:00:55,095 [man chanting in native language] 8 00:00:55,180 --> 00:00:58,140 [Narrator] And those who find that place 9 00:00:58,224 --> 00:01:01,018 and then return to the presence of others 10 00:01:01,102 --> 00:01:03,187 become the speakers. 11 00:01:04,647 --> 00:01:07,107 They are the messengers. 12 00:01:43,269 --> 00:01:46,605 [Man] The ocean talks to us in different ways. 13 00:01:46,689 --> 00:01:48,565 It talks to everyone in different ways. 14 00:01:50,902 --> 00:01:52,778 For me, because of my culture, 15 00:01:52,862 --> 00:01:56,031 because of who I am, because of being Hawaiian. 16 00:01:56,116 --> 00:01:59,910 Our ancestors have taught us to read the elements-- 17 00:01:59,994 --> 00:02:03,622 to read the wind, to read the earth, to read the ocean, 18 00:02:03,706 --> 00:02:05,082 the waves, the water, the reefs, 19 00:02:05,166 --> 00:02:06,708 the fish, the marine life, 20 00:02:06,793 --> 00:02:10,045 because there are signs that tell you what is happening 21 00:02:10,130 --> 00:02:12,131 or what is about to happen. 22 00:02:24,435 --> 00:02:26,520 When there are certain currents that's moving, 23 00:02:26,604 --> 00:02:28,147 certain tidal currents, 24 00:02:28,231 --> 00:02:30,315 it's telling you that the surf is coming up. 25 00:02:30,400 --> 00:02:33,235 When the clouds are moving in a certain direction, 26 00:02:33,319 --> 00:02:36,029 or the color of the sunset is telling you 27 00:02:36,156 --> 00:02:38,949 of different storms that's moving across. 28 00:02:39,033 --> 00:02:43,120 There's so many different signs that the ocean, 29 00:02:43,204 --> 00:02:45,164 the skies that will communicate to you 30 00:02:45,248 --> 00:02:47,082 if you know what you're looking for. 31 00:02:56,259 --> 00:02:58,927 Tow-in surfing is using a jet ski 32 00:02:59,012 --> 00:03:03,432 to be towed into waves that is too big to paddle into. 33 00:03:03,516 --> 00:03:06,935 It's a sport of a team, of a group. 34 00:03:07,020 --> 00:03:11,064 You can only survive by your teammate, 35 00:03:11,191 --> 00:03:13,567 from the man who's pulling you into the wave 36 00:03:13,651 --> 00:03:16,111 to the man who's safetying you from the side. 37 00:03:16,196 --> 00:03:17,946 When that lifeguard has to respond 38 00:03:18,031 --> 00:03:19,656 to a worst case scenario, 39 00:03:19,741 --> 00:03:21,825 it's a life and death situation. 40 00:03:47,018 --> 00:03:49,603 These people are pulling into the biggest barrels 41 00:03:49,687 --> 00:03:52,105 and the biggest waves in the deepest zone 42 00:03:52,232 --> 00:03:54,107 and the hardest impact area 43 00:03:54,234 --> 00:03:56,693 in the most extreme conditions. 44 00:04:26,266 --> 00:04:28,684 There's no way humanly possible 45 00:04:28,768 --> 00:04:30,227 you could paddle into these waves, 46 00:04:30,311 --> 00:04:31,561 so when you wipe out 47 00:04:31,646 --> 00:04:35,023 into these massive volumes of surf, 48 00:04:35,108 --> 00:04:38,277 you're under for just a long, long time. 49 00:05:11,686 --> 00:05:14,187 You really need to train not only your mind, 50 00:05:14,314 --> 00:05:16,356 but your body and your soul 51 00:05:16,441 --> 00:05:19,568 to get ready for that intense wipe-out. 52 00:05:19,652 --> 00:05:20,944 What I've been doing lately 53 00:05:21,029 --> 00:05:22,821 is I grab this 80-pound lava rock, 54 00:05:22,905 --> 00:05:24,614 and we'll go running in the channel. 55 00:05:24,699 --> 00:05:27,200 We'll just go back and forth and just keep going 56 00:05:27,327 --> 00:05:29,703 until we pretty much just tire ourselves out. 57 00:05:29,787 --> 00:05:32,581 My biggest strength is knowing my weaknesses 58 00:05:32,665 --> 00:05:36,501 and try to strengthen my weaknesses in whatever I do. 59 00:05:43,426 --> 00:05:46,053 [man chanting in native language] 60 00:05:48,264 --> 00:05:50,349 [dialing telephone] 61 00:05:50,433 --> 00:05:52,059 [Surf Report Announcer] Now the Wave riders, GQ here 62 00:05:52,143 --> 00:05:53,477 with your special edition update, 63 00:05:53,561 --> 00:05:55,437 your forecast for Big Wednesday. 64 00:05:55,521 --> 00:05:57,856 It'll be the biggest swell we've seen all year. 65 00:05:57,940 --> 00:06:00,150 Some spots could reach 30 feet, 66 00:06:00,234 --> 00:06:04,363 and it's going to be an epic day for tow-ins and Waimea Bay. 67 00:06:10,703 --> 00:06:12,954 [Man] We knew this day was coming. 68 00:06:14,499 --> 00:06:18,293 This is the first time that anyone on the island of Oahu 69 00:06:18,378 --> 00:06:20,879 has ever attempted to ride waves of this size. 70 00:06:29,472 --> 00:06:31,848 We've been out there on 30-foot days before. 71 00:06:31,933 --> 00:06:33,392 And this was bigger. 72 00:06:34,769 --> 00:06:36,436 This was much larger. 73 00:07:12,598 --> 00:07:15,600 January 28, 1 998-- 74 00:07:15,685 --> 00:07:19,688 the first time 35- and 45-foot waves were ever ridden. 75 00:07:21,441 --> 00:07:24,985 It's a milestone that will be measured from now on. 76 00:10:06,480 --> 00:10:09,274 [man chants in native language] 77 00:10:23,497 --> 00:10:24,914 [Man] When I am going out 78 00:10:24,999 --> 00:10:27,917 to push against what l am capable of doing, 79 00:10:28,002 --> 00:10:30,587 I have to have fear. 80 00:10:30,671 --> 00:10:34,674 Fear is the thing that, uh, keeps you sane. 81 00:10:34,759 --> 00:10:37,761 Without fear, you'd do something insane. 82 00:10:46,228 --> 00:10:48,021 20 tears of climbing have taught me 83 00:10:48,105 --> 00:10:53,276 to use that fear as kind of a friend and let it focus my concentration 84 00:10:53,361 --> 00:10:56,613 and just bring me into the moment of what I'm doing 85 00:10:56,697 --> 00:11:00,200 and really concentrate on the climbing and perform better. 86 00:11:05,414 --> 00:11:06,790 [Catherine Mulvihill] I realize 87 00:11:06,874 --> 00:11:08,375 that I've got to control that fear 88 00:11:08,459 --> 00:11:11,002 and select from that fear 89 00:11:11,087 --> 00:11:14,130 and determine what's real and what's imaginary. 90 00:11:16,717 --> 00:11:18,426 There's a learning curve there, 91 00:11:18,511 --> 00:11:19,969 and over time you get acclimated 92 00:11:20,054 --> 00:11:22,764 to more technical steep terrain, 93 00:11:22,848 --> 00:11:25,016 and you grow into it. 94 00:12:19,405 --> 00:12:21,030 [Barry Blanchard] I like to get out into places 95 00:12:21,115 --> 00:12:23,867 that no human has ever been before 96 00:12:23,951 --> 00:12:25,744 and who knows what's there, 97 00:12:25,828 --> 00:12:27,954 and often, that can take everything you've got 98 00:12:28,038 --> 00:12:29,497 to get through the face 99 00:12:29,582 --> 00:12:32,751 and up to the top or down to the bottom or halfway up and down. 100 00:12:51,270 --> 00:12:54,355 Soloing's climbing without a rope, 101 00:12:54,440 --> 00:12:55,899 climbing by yourself without a rope. 102 00:12:55,983 --> 00:12:59,110 If you fall, you're going to fall all the way to the ground. 103 00:12:59,195 --> 00:13:03,072 It's just you and the waterfall, and you're climbing. 104 00:13:07,203 --> 00:13:10,747 The feeling is, uh, freedom. 105 00:13:10,831 --> 00:13:13,166 It's just freedom. 106 00:13:46,867 --> 00:13:49,327 When you're soloing, you're alone, 107 00:13:49,411 --> 00:13:50,745 and that has rewards, 108 00:13:50,830 --> 00:13:54,123 but l think you probably glean more rewards 109 00:13:54,208 --> 00:13:56,960 from interacting with your partner, 110 00:13:57,044 --> 00:13:59,963 or, in my case, going climbing with my wife. 111 00:14:15,187 --> 00:14:17,939 [Mulvihill] I think the self-reliance aspect of climbing 112 00:14:18,023 --> 00:14:21,734 can make you aware of the possibility of doing things you never imagined, 113 00:14:21,861 --> 00:14:25,655 and I think it just makes you realize 114 00:14:25,739 --> 00:14:28,157 how far a human being can push themselves. 115 00:14:30,452 --> 00:14:33,204 If you do something like that with style and control, 116 00:14:33,289 --> 00:14:35,748 that's a perfect day. 117 00:15:37,144 --> 00:15:38,186 [Woman] Yeah, I think 118 00:15:38,270 --> 00:15:39,812 that the feeling of the mountains 119 00:15:39,939 --> 00:15:41,564 is something that you have within you, 120 00:15:41,649 --> 00:15:46,861 and I don't think I could ever live away from that. 121 00:15:46,946 --> 00:15:51,407 I know that there are lots of powers and spirits. 122 00:15:51,492 --> 00:15:53,368 I feel that every day. 123 00:15:57,957 --> 00:16:02,335 The mountains in Alaska are just something spectacular. 124 00:16:02,419 --> 00:16:04,712 You're just surrounded by mountains 125 00:16:04,797 --> 00:16:06,881 as far as you can see, 126 00:16:06,966 --> 00:16:09,425 and then you have the chance to be able to ski all that-- 127 00:16:09,510 --> 00:16:11,094 I mean to pick up a line 128 00:16:11,178 --> 00:16:13,179 and say "I want to ski this" or "I want to ski that," 129 00:16:13,263 --> 00:16:15,139 and that's just incredible. 130 00:16:21,689 --> 00:16:23,231 [Man] It's a weird feeling 131 00:16:23,315 --> 00:16:25,274 in the pit of your stomach when you are out there, 132 00:16:25,359 --> 00:16:27,986 and you feel like it's time travel, 133 00:16:28,070 --> 00:16:30,029 and you could have been there millions of tears ago 134 00:16:30,114 --> 00:16:32,073 and it wouldn't have been much different. 135 00:16:51,051 --> 00:16:53,469 The snow quality up here is incredible. 136 00:16:53,554 --> 00:16:55,930 The mountains are just really beautiful 137 00:16:56,015 --> 00:16:58,474 and steep, very steep. 138 00:17:01,770 --> 00:17:04,981 [Woman] Earth, my body. 139 00:17:05,065 --> 00:17:07,483 Skiing is an expression of style. 140 00:17:07,568 --> 00:17:09,277 It's how you interpret the mountain. 141 00:17:09,361 --> 00:17:10,945 It's how you use the mountain. 142 00:17:11,030 --> 00:17:12,572 It's how you flow down the mountain 143 00:17:12,656 --> 00:17:15,658 and what you choose to do with whatever's in front of you. 144 00:17:17,161 --> 00:17:20,872 Earth, my body. 145 00:17:20,956 --> 00:17:23,207 Water, my blood. 146 00:17:24,668 --> 00:17:27,086 Wind, my breath. 147 00:17:28,380 --> 00:17:31,132 Fire, my spirit. 148 00:17:32,426 --> 00:17:34,635 Earth, my body. 149 00:17:36,221 --> 00:17:38,264 Water, my blood. 150 00:17:40,059 --> 00:17:42,101 Wind, my breath. 151 00:17:43,812 --> 00:17:46,147 Fire, my spirit. 152 00:17:47,733 --> 00:17:49,776 Earth, my body. 153 00:17:51,278 --> 00:17:53,488 Water, my blood. 154 00:17:53,572 --> 00:17:54,989 With snow safety, 155 00:17:55,074 --> 00:17:57,158 I always check-- first of all, wherever I go, 156 00:17:57,242 --> 00:17:59,077 I check with the people who are in the know, 157 00:17:59,161 --> 00:18:01,079 the most knowledgeable people in the area, 158 00:18:01,163 --> 00:18:04,165 and I find out from them what the snow pack's been doing. 159 00:18:04,249 --> 00:18:06,626 Those are the people that are going to save your life 160 00:18:06,710 --> 00:18:08,044 because if you don't check with someone 161 00:18:08,128 --> 00:18:09,670 and you go out there on your own, 162 00:18:09,755 --> 00:18:11,005 you can get smoked. 163 00:18:19,765 --> 00:18:21,099 [Francine Moreillon] No, I don't think 164 00:18:21,183 --> 00:18:22,975 you want to beat the mountain 165 00:18:23,102 --> 00:18:24,560 because, again, you know that the mountain 166 00:18:24,645 --> 00:18:26,479 will always be stronger than you. 167 00:18:26,563 --> 00:18:30,191 But you just have to be in harmony with the mountain, 168 00:18:30,275 --> 00:18:33,611 and once you can achieve that, 169 00:18:33,695 --> 00:18:37,073 it means that you've understood a little bit, 170 00:18:37,157 --> 00:18:40,993 Like a very little bit, of how the mountain functions. 171 00:19:25,998 --> 00:19:27,039 [Gordy Peifer] Sloughing is one 172 00:19:27,166 --> 00:19:28,833 of the finer things in Alaska. 173 00:19:28,917 --> 00:19:30,710 It's when snow moves with you while you're skiing, 174 00:19:30,794 --> 00:19:32,503 and it's not really an avalanche 175 00:19:32,588 --> 00:19:34,172 in the sense that the slope fractures 176 00:19:34,256 --> 00:19:36,215 and the whole slope starts moving with you. 177 00:19:36,300 --> 00:19:39,427 It's more that the snow that you're skiing starts moving with you. 178 00:19:39,511 --> 00:19:41,179 And once that snow starts moving, 179 00:19:41,263 --> 00:19:43,556 it takes all the rest of the snow below it with it, 180 00:19:43,640 --> 00:19:45,808 and then eventually it's this huge mass of snow 181 00:19:45,893 --> 00:19:47,226 moving all around you, 182 00:19:47,311 --> 00:19:50,521 and either you're in front of it, you're behind it, or you're in it. 183 00:19:50,606 --> 00:19:52,857 If you're in it, you don't want to stay in it. 184 00:19:52,941 --> 00:19:55,693 lf you're in front of it, you want to stay in front of it, 185 00:19:55,777 --> 00:19:58,613 and if you're behind it, that's probably the safest place to be, 186 00:19:58,697 --> 00:20:01,324 but it's not always the most fun because you have to go slow then. 187 00:20:08,540 --> 00:20:09,832 It's an amazing feeling 188 00:20:09,917 --> 00:20:11,459 skiing when the snow is moving. 189 00:20:22,221 --> 00:20:24,263 I guess I got some firsthand knowledge 190 00:20:24,348 --> 00:20:25,973 of how good a helmet is for you. 191 00:20:26,058 --> 00:20:28,768 It wasn't a serious exposure on that line 192 00:20:28,852 --> 00:20:30,269 that I was risking death. 193 00:20:30,354 --> 00:20:31,729 I knew I could tumble, 194 00:20:31,813 --> 00:20:33,564 otherwise I wouldn't have aired that top air. 195 00:20:33,649 --> 00:20:35,858 I tried to recover as hard as I could, 196 00:20:35,943 --> 00:20:38,277 and for a split second I thought I had it-- 197 00:20:38,362 --> 00:20:39,904 I guess that's what usually happens-- 198 00:20:39,988 --> 00:20:41,489 and l just couldn't pull it off, 199 00:20:41,573 --> 00:20:43,699 and I knew the rocks were coming. 200 00:20:45,410 --> 00:20:47,536 I also knew I could clear the cliff band, 201 00:20:47,621 --> 00:20:49,664 so I was basically hoping I wouldn't hit my head, 202 00:20:49,748 --> 00:20:51,707 and as it happened, I did hit my head, 203 00:20:51,792 --> 00:20:54,335 and the helmet was there for me. 204 00:21:34,334 --> 00:21:35,918 [Man] The addiction to adrenaline 205 00:21:36,003 --> 00:21:39,755 is what gets most people into these action sports, 206 00:21:39,840 --> 00:21:42,133 and once you get hooked on that adrenaline 207 00:21:42,217 --> 00:21:43,551 that comes pretty easily 208 00:21:43,635 --> 00:21:45,303 through snowboarding or through surfing, 209 00:21:45,387 --> 00:21:48,848 you get fueled up. You do a run, and you get this adrenaline feeling, 210 00:21:48,932 --> 00:21:50,349 and then the endorphins flow, 211 00:21:50,434 --> 00:21:52,351 and you get addicted to that feeling. 212 00:21:52,436 --> 00:21:54,603 But after a while, that feeling, 213 00:21:54,688 --> 00:21:56,230 I don't think it's really enough 214 00:21:56,315 --> 00:21:58,733 to keep you fully stoked as a lifestyle, 215 00:21:58,817 --> 00:22:00,151 but the things that go with it-- 216 00:22:00,235 --> 00:22:01,402 the people you meet 217 00:22:01,486 --> 00:22:03,029 and the attitudes that they have 218 00:22:03,113 --> 00:22:05,865 and just your integration with the environment, 219 00:22:05,949 --> 00:22:07,992 the mountains, with the ocean-- 220 00:22:08,076 --> 00:22:09,744 that whole lifestyle environment 221 00:22:09,828 --> 00:22:12,330 is what keeps me going. 222 00:22:33,643 --> 00:22:36,020 I think the best part about snowboarding 223 00:22:36,104 --> 00:22:40,399 is that while I'm doing it, there's nothing else on my mind. 224 00:22:40,484 --> 00:22:43,569 When I'm snowboarding and I'm really in tune with myself 225 00:22:43,653 --> 00:22:44,987 and in tune with the run, 226 00:22:45,072 --> 00:22:46,822 I feel like I'm experiencing the moment 227 00:22:46,907 --> 00:22:48,240 for exactly what it is-- 228 00:22:48,367 --> 00:22:50,451 no distractions, no hindrances. 229 00:22:50,535 --> 00:22:52,787 It's just that next turn in front of me. 230 00:22:52,871 --> 00:22:56,123 And when that happens, it's a really calm sort of feeling. 231 00:22:56,208 --> 00:22:57,917 It's like I'm in the right place. 232 00:22:58,001 --> 00:23:00,127 I feel like I'm where I'm supposed to be 233 00:23:00,212 --> 00:23:02,338 and everything is all lined up. 234 00:23:02,422 --> 00:23:04,298 It's just a natural flow 235 00:23:04,383 --> 00:23:06,884 just with the rest of the mountain. 236 00:23:27,155 --> 00:23:31,450 [Women singing in Middle-Eastern language] 237 00:24:37,642 --> 00:24:39,351 I've had somebody explain it to me 238 00:24:39,478 --> 00:24:43,022 that what I do, it's an escape from real life. 239 00:24:43,106 --> 00:24:44,857 It's a way that I can go out there 240 00:24:44,941 --> 00:24:46,400 and just be on my own terms 241 00:24:46,485 --> 00:24:48,903 and escape the harshness of really. 242 00:24:48,987 --> 00:24:52,573 And to me, it's-- rather than an exit from something else, 243 00:24:52,657 --> 00:24:53,908 it's really an entrance. 244 00:24:53,992 --> 00:24:56,035 It's like you're really in tune 245 00:24:56,119 --> 00:24:58,412 with the type of person that you want to be 246 00:24:58,497 --> 00:25:00,331 and you're comfortable with who you are 247 00:25:00,415 --> 00:25:02,082 and your position in the environment 248 00:25:02,167 --> 00:25:04,084 and the world and everything that defines you, 249 00:25:04,169 --> 00:25:06,462 it seems to be all lined up where it should be. 250 00:25:06,546 --> 00:25:08,088 And it doesn't last long. 251 00:25:08,173 --> 00:25:09,882 It's usually over by the time 252 00:25:09,966 --> 00:25:11,467 you make the last turn in your run 253 00:25:11,551 --> 00:25:12,718 and you take your bindings off 254 00:25:12,802 --> 00:25:16,180 and you look back up the hill and you see the tracks. 255 00:25:16,264 --> 00:25:19,767 Your mind slowly wanders back into some sort of really. 256 00:25:19,851 --> 00:25:22,603 But for a while there, while you were coming down the hill, 257 00:25:22,687 --> 00:25:24,146 it seemed just right. 258 00:25:35,909 --> 00:25:37,618 [Woman] For me to have 259 00:25:37,702 --> 00:25:42,414 the same excited feeling of learning and accomplishment 260 00:25:42,541 --> 00:25:44,917 that I had my first day of snowboarding, 261 00:25:45,001 --> 00:25:46,919 I have to continue to push myself 262 00:25:47,003 --> 00:25:49,213 and do things I didn't think I could do 263 00:25:49,297 --> 00:25:51,799 so that l have that feeling 264 00:25:51,883 --> 00:25:56,095 of overcoming a fear or accomplishing something. 265 00:25:56,179 --> 00:25:57,721 I do get that feeling 266 00:25:57,806 --> 00:26:01,684 that I had my first day from pushing myself, 267 00:26:01,768 --> 00:26:04,812 doing something I didn't think I could do. 268 00:26:08,567 --> 00:26:12,945 [Woman] ? Flocking to the sea ? 269 00:26:14,823 --> 00:26:19,743 ? Crowds of people wait for me ? 270 00:26:21,496 --> 00:26:24,665 ? Seagulls scavenge ? 271 00:26:24,749 --> 00:26:27,668 ? Steal ice cream ? 272 00:26:27,752 --> 00:26:30,879 ? Worries vanish ? 273 00:26:30,964 --> 00:26:33,048 ? Within my dream ? 274 00:26:33,133 --> 00:26:37,052 ? I left my soul there ? 275 00:26:37,137 --> 00:26:40,931 ? Down by the sea ? 276 00:26:41,016 --> 00:26:43,642 ? Lost control here ? 277 00:26:43,727 --> 00:26:46,562 ? Livin' free ? 278 00:26:46,646 --> 00:26:49,857 ? I left my soul there ? 279 00:26:49,941 --> 00:26:53,736 ? Down by the sea ? 280 00:26:53,820 --> 00:26:56,739 ? Lost control here ? 281 00:26:56,823 --> 00:26:59,908 ? Livin' free ? 282 00:27:08,043 --> 00:27:12,796 ? Fishin' boats sail past the shore ? 283 00:27:12,881 --> 00:27:15,924 ? No singing ? 284 00:27:16,009 --> 00:27:19,303 ? Mayday anymore ? 285 00:27:19,387 --> 00:27:22,556 ? The sun is shinin' ? 286 00:27:22,641 --> 00:27:25,434 ? The water's clear ? 287 00:27:25,518 --> 00:27:31,482 ? Just you and I walk along the pier ? 288 00:27:31,566 --> 00:27:34,818 ? I left my soul there ? 289 00:27:34,903 --> 00:27:38,614 ? Down by the sea ? 290 00:27:38,698 --> 00:27:41,825 ? Lost control here ? 291 00:27:41,910 --> 00:27:44,078 ? Livin' free ? 292 00:27:44,162 --> 00:27:46,872 You feel very tiny on a mountain, 293 00:27:46,956 --> 00:27:51,669 and I know that I have to be smart and pick my lines carefully 294 00:27:51,753 --> 00:27:53,629 and that I can enjoy the mountains 295 00:27:53,713 --> 00:27:57,424 and experience maybe the best times of my life there, 296 00:27:57,509 --> 00:27:59,760 but l have to do it with a lot of respect 297 00:27:59,844 --> 00:28:01,178 because we're so small 298 00:28:01,262 --> 00:28:02,680 and those big mountains 299 00:28:02,764 --> 00:28:04,723 could just take you out in a second. 300 00:28:11,147 --> 00:28:13,148 [Craig Kelly] I'm not really out there 301 00:28:13,233 --> 00:28:15,150 doing things or changing things 302 00:28:15,235 --> 00:28:17,736 or making a big impact on Mother Nature. 303 00:28:17,821 --> 00:28:19,279 I'm just a part of it, 304 00:28:19,364 --> 00:28:20,781 a really small part of it. 305 00:28:20,865 --> 00:28:22,533 And it's sort of calming to know 306 00:28:22,617 --> 00:28:24,952 that all that exists in a really pure state, 307 00:28:25,036 --> 00:28:27,079 whether you're there or not. 308 00:29:08,997 --> 00:29:10,414 [Man] I realized 309 00:29:10,498 --> 00:29:12,583 right from the very first time l windsurfed 310 00:29:12,667 --> 00:29:14,084 that I was hooked. 311 00:29:14,169 --> 00:29:17,045 The first time l got on a board and lifted up that sail 312 00:29:17,130 --> 00:29:20,299 and just started moving 5, 1 0 feet and fell, 313 00:29:20,383 --> 00:29:22,342 I knew I was hooked right off the start. 314 00:29:28,767 --> 00:29:32,728 Whenever I'm in the ocean, I feel no worries. 315 00:29:32,812 --> 00:29:35,105 So if l go windsurfing for a few hours, 316 00:29:35,190 --> 00:29:37,441 I can forget everything. 317 00:30:19,484 --> 00:30:21,902 There's a thing called manna, 318 00:30:21,986 --> 00:30:25,322 which is your spiritual power, tour force, 319 00:30:25,406 --> 00:30:28,951 and for many Hawaiians, their manna comes from the ocean. 320 00:30:29,035 --> 00:30:32,120 Their power is derived from the ocean. 321 00:31:40,315 --> 00:31:42,858 All of the athletes from the nature sports 322 00:31:42,942 --> 00:31:45,819 share something very common. 323 00:31:47,447 --> 00:31:49,531 And it's because we're all out there 324 00:31:49,616 --> 00:31:51,450 where we feel our strongest. 325 00:31:51,534 --> 00:31:54,703 And I think all of these athletes do it 326 00:31:54,787 --> 00:31:56,997 because they feel that manna. 327 00:32:16,309 --> 00:32:17,809 [Man] The feelings that you get 328 00:32:17,936 --> 00:32:20,437 even just preparing to go out on a big day 329 00:32:20,521 --> 00:32:23,357 are what drive you to do it. 330 00:32:23,441 --> 00:32:25,901 And it's that excitement and that adrenaline 331 00:32:25,985 --> 00:32:29,363 and that anticipation that makes it such a rush. 332 00:32:29,447 --> 00:32:31,073 Just rigging up and getting out there, 333 00:32:31,157 --> 00:32:32,449 the whole preparation. 334 00:32:32,533 --> 00:32:34,534 Getting out on the water, seeing it-- 335 00:32:34,619 --> 00:32:36,870 the first wave, you know, moving in. 336 00:32:36,955 --> 00:32:38,288 It's an amazing feeling 337 00:32:38,373 --> 00:32:40,540 just being close to that much power. 338 00:32:43,836 --> 00:32:47,005 The core of the whole thing is fun, it's enjoyment. 339 00:33:06,985 --> 00:33:08,777 It doesn't matter how good you are, 340 00:33:08,861 --> 00:33:11,029 how great a waterman you are, how great a swimmer you are. 341 00:33:11,114 --> 00:33:14,032 You have to respect the amount of power that's there. 342 00:33:59,037 --> 00:34:01,121 People in any sport that have done well 343 00:34:01,205 --> 00:34:04,791 and maintained a grounded position 344 00:34:04,876 --> 00:34:07,127 and continue to do it because they love it 345 00:34:07,211 --> 00:34:08,795 never really let it get to their head. 346 00:34:08,880 --> 00:34:11,548 l really respect that, no matter what the sport. 347 00:35:16,155 --> 00:35:17,489 [Woman] Each different rock type 348 00:35:17,573 --> 00:35:19,199 has a different way of climbing on it. 349 00:35:19,283 --> 00:35:22,160 You have to be sensitive to the forms on the rock, 350 00:35:22,245 --> 00:35:24,996 and you have to adapt yourself to that shape 351 00:35:25,123 --> 00:35:26,581 and that's what's nice about climbing. 352 00:35:26,666 --> 00:35:28,458 You're in a beautiful place, 353 00:35:28,543 --> 00:35:29,501 and it's really inspiring. 354 00:35:29,585 --> 00:35:33,922 There's no better way to learn about the nature of life 355 00:35:34,006 --> 00:35:38,468 than to try to go with that flow and do the best you can each time. 356 00:35:44,058 --> 00:35:46,017 When you step off the ground on a climb, 357 00:35:46,144 --> 00:35:47,811 you know it is going to be an adventure, 358 00:35:47,895 --> 00:35:49,187 and you have to deal 359 00:35:49,272 --> 00:35:51,481 with everything that comes your way. 360 00:35:51,566 --> 00:35:54,359 Climbing is very simple, 361 00:35:54,443 --> 00:35:56,111 and you have to rely on yourself, 362 00:35:56,195 --> 00:35:58,071 and you have to figure it out for yourself. 363 00:35:58,156 --> 00:36:00,157 You have to be responsible for making decisions 364 00:36:00,241 --> 00:36:02,742 and being a little bit creative. 365 00:36:06,330 --> 00:36:09,499 [Woman] ? Love, love is a verb ? 366 00:36:09,584 --> 00:36:12,627 ? Love is a doing word ? 367 00:36:12,712 --> 00:36:18,800 ? Fearless on my breath ? 368 00:36:18,885 --> 00:36:22,137 ? Gentle impulsion ? 369 00:36:22,221 --> 00:36:25,056 ? Shakes and makes me lighter ? 370 00:36:25,183 --> 00:36:31,146 ? Fearless on my breath ? 371 00:36:31,230 --> 00:36:34,566 ? Teardrop on the fire ? 372 00:36:34,650 --> 00:36:38,320 ? Fearless on my breath ? 373 00:36:38,404 --> 00:36:40,822 It's about the relationship with nature 374 00:36:40,907 --> 00:36:42,782 and also human nature 375 00:36:42,867 --> 00:36:44,951 because I'm usually with a climbing partner. 376 00:36:45,036 --> 00:36:46,244 And that's one of the things 377 00:36:46,329 --> 00:36:48,288 that gives meaning to my climbing, 378 00:36:48,372 --> 00:36:51,124 is having fun with my friends in beautiful places 379 00:36:51,209 --> 00:36:53,460 and discovering things all the time. 380 00:36:56,297 --> 00:36:59,841 ? Light, light up the day ? 381 00:36:59,926 --> 00:37:02,302 You learn so many things about yourself in climbing 382 00:37:02,386 --> 00:37:04,721 and how to relate to other people, 383 00:37:04,805 --> 00:37:09,267 how to solve problems, how to avoid problems. 384 00:37:13,522 --> 00:37:14,856 If you go to sleep 385 00:37:14,941 --> 00:37:17,484 and you're dreaming about some climb or some beautiful place 386 00:37:17,568 --> 00:37:19,986 and you get up and you go out there and do it, 387 00:37:20,071 --> 00:37:21,988 that's sort of what it is all about. 388 00:37:22,073 --> 00:37:24,532 ? Teardrop on the fire ? 389 00:37:24,617 --> 00:37:27,577 ? Fearless on my ? 390 00:37:32,333 --> 00:37:34,125 Everyone climbs for different reasons. 391 00:37:34,252 --> 00:37:36,169 People take different things away from climbing, 392 00:37:36,254 --> 00:37:38,713 whether it's just the beauty of the environment, 393 00:37:38,798 --> 00:37:42,092 the feeling of the movement, being with your partner. 394 00:37:42,176 --> 00:37:43,385 Some people just climb 395 00:37:43,469 --> 00:37:45,887 because they want to sat 396 00:37:45,972 --> 00:37:47,597 they've done the hardest route. 397 00:37:59,819 --> 00:38:01,111 [Lynn Hill] I climbed everything. 398 00:38:01,195 --> 00:38:02,362 I climb trees, 399 00:38:02,446 --> 00:38:03,780 and I just like being active. 400 00:38:03,864 --> 00:38:05,740 I like being engaged in the environment 401 00:38:05,825 --> 00:38:07,367 and playing outdoors, 402 00:38:07,451 --> 00:38:09,119 so it was a natural for me. 403 00:38:12,331 --> 00:38:15,166 The imagination is really key, especially in climbing, 404 00:38:15,293 --> 00:38:17,168 because you look at the form of nature 405 00:38:17,295 --> 00:38:19,879 and you're trying to adapt to it and flow with it, 406 00:38:19,964 --> 00:38:22,382 and kids do that very well. They don't think about it. 407 00:38:22,466 --> 00:38:24,384 They just look at the situation, 408 00:38:24,468 --> 00:38:26,594 and they try to imagine what's possible 409 00:38:26,679 --> 00:38:30,098 instead of being told what's possible or not possible. 410 00:38:47,325 --> 00:38:49,951 [Man chanting in native language] 411 00:38:52,663 --> 00:38:54,247 When you're in a beautiful place, 412 00:38:54,332 --> 00:38:55,707 you can connect with that energy 413 00:38:55,791 --> 00:38:57,083 in that place in the world. 414 00:38:57,168 --> 00:38:58,460 When you're there, 415 00:38:58,544 --> 00:39:00,378 you're opening up your vision to the rock, 416 00:39:00,463 --> 00:39:02,464 and you can't really think about other things 417 00:39:02,548 --> 00:39:03,965 when you're climbing. 418 00:39:04,050 --> 00:39:05,592 You're just thinking about what you're doing 419 00:39:05,676 --> 00:39:08,386 and trying to bring a certain lightness to it. 420 00:39:08,471 --> 00:39:09,971 You don't want to feel heavy. 421 00:39:10,056 --> 00:39:11,306 You want to feel 422 00:39:11,390 --> 00:39:12,974 like it doesn't take any energy at all. 423 00:39:13,059 --> 00:39:15,352 You're just flowing up this beautiful rock. 424 00:39:17,980 --> 00:39:19,856 [thunder] 425 00:40:21,001 --> 00:40:22,293 Climbing has changed me. 426 00:40:22,420 --> 00:40:24,546 In some ways, it's taught me 427 00:40:24,630 --> 00:40:26,297 what works and what doesn't, really, 428 00:40:26,424 --> 00:40:28,675 and when I rely on my intuition 429 00:40:28,759 --> 00:40:30,593 and I do what I believe in, 430 00:40:30,678 --> 00:40:32,679 what l feel, it's usually right. 431 00:40:32,763 --> 00:40:34,889 And I think you need to develop that 432 00:40:34,974 --> 00:40:37,434 so that you can pay attention to it more, 433 00:40:37,518 --> 00:40:39,269 and that's why, when you go climbing, 434 00:40:39,353 --> 00:40:40,770 you bring it back to simplicity 435 00:40:40,855 --> 00:40:43,398 and you rely on a little bit of equipment, 436 00:40:43,482 --> 00:40:45,817 but mostly yourself, your own decisions, 437 00:40:45,901 --> 00:40:49,821 and feeling about being in that place at that time. 438 00:40:59,039 --> 00:41:00,290 You learn respect 439 00:41:00,374 --> 00:41:03,835 when you are sensitive to nature and all its forms and beauty, 440 00:41:03,919 --> 00:41:08,173 and you can stop and listen and be open to perceiving it. 441 00:41:14,722 --> 00:41:17,557 Nature is the best form of art to me.